A couple of weeks ago, I wormed my way into a dinner with Anna Quindlen, who was in town for a few days of lectures and conversations over at ASU. I’m not sure exactly what I expected, but I found her surprisingly down-to-earth and eager to hear from everyone at the table. And she had some interesting things to say, both about working as a journalist and working as novelist.
Perhaps because Quindlen began her career as a journalist–where stories are chopped, copy editors write the headlines, editors kill pieces for no particular reason–she seemed to lack the usual authorial protectiveness/defensiveness about her work. I heard in her responses an approach to both journalism and fiction that was something like: get the words on the page as best you can, let the editors do what they must, move on to the next project, and don’t waste time looking over your shoulder. The sense I got was that writing might be her life’s work, but her writing wasn’t her life. Pretty refreshing.
And yet for all that, it isn’t her latest Newsweek column that I’m running around telling people to read this week. What I want you to go find is the latest piece by a writer about as far from Quindlen as you can get. The 2,500 miles from Tucson to New York is only the beginning.
What you need to dig up is the current issue of Arizona Highways, and the article you’re looking for is “Coming to Arizona,” by Charles Bowden. It’s perfect. In a thousand words, he jams together the despair of his youth in academia, the glorious danger of the desert in June, the exhilaration of that plunge down I-17 from Flagstaff from Phoenix. (Did you know the freeway could be exhilarating? In this essay it is. Is there a better writer you’ve probably never heard of? Doubtful.)
It’s true, Bowden isn’t for everyone. Anna Quindlen, I’d guess, wouldn’t go hiking with the guy. There’s a little Mailer in his work, both the ego and what could come across as sexism, though I’d hope people wouldn’t read it as misogyny. If you can scrape away those things–and, actually, they’re mostly absent from the Highways essay–what you discover beneath are the ingredients of poetry and life: velocity, tequila, birdseed, humor, creosote, loneliness, gasoline.
It’s hard to explain without showing you the man’s work up close. (Helps to hear his voice, too, 100% gravel.) Unfortunately, Arizona Highways is hopelessly mismanaged and has hardly any Web presence. So you’ll have to trust me on that one. Or you can extrapolate from something like what I’ve excerpted below. It’s a tiny bit of an “Expedition Journal” Bowden wrote and posted on a site he and a few friends glued together as an argument for a new, giant bi-national park in southern Arizona-northern Mexico.
Last night, I was sprawled out on the ground. The lightning to the east and south had died down. The voices of Team Tontos had stilled. All lights were extinguished. It was after midnight, and the stars hung low and slapped against my head when I sat up.
Silence. Just the humming of the planets. Not a light in the distance, no glow on the horizon from some distant city. Black night, white star, silence. It was closer then, this thing. It was big and it was near. And we all knew it, whether asleep or awake.
What we want, we cannot quite say…but with God as my witness, this is the place to find it.
Here’s a little more:
I get up at dawn at our camp slapped against the Tuserals. Fresh badger holes dot the cholla colony; huge rat middens clot the hillside. We’re maybe six miles from water — my badger neighbor is living off blood.
The sun hits ninety by nine a.m. A green and white chopper lands, and the Border Patrol pilot says he found a group of seven the day before with two gallons of water for all. Then there was that dead man in his twenties sprawled in the Mohawks only three hundred yards from water. Routes, numbers, the heat, people going down…I can smell the pain, feel the stab in the muscle, the shredding of the mind until the only thing you know is that you no longer know. They are out there, moving north: men, women, children, fat guts, lean guts. Dead guts. The traditional road of the devil ran east to west. The new road to hell goes north through the flames to El Norte. I sip a can of ice cold V-8 and hear them clawing toward a little share of my world.
A desert bighorn can get moisture from the dew of plants, run a body temperature of 107 F. I can’t. They — those shadows chasing mirages — can’t. I clutch my cold can of V-8. They clutch their dreams, rasping sounds coming from their throats.
Doesn’t take much to get the idea.
I’ll admit, some of my enthusiasm is connected to the gradual Southwest re-education I’m undergoing. As I settle back into Phoenix, I’m especially hungry for writing about this place. (For instance, finding the section of Tree of Smoke set here was thrilling.) I’m not so hungry that I’ll pick up a Tony Hillerman novel, but just about. The stuff Bowden does–I think that’s what I’m looking for, as a reader and a writer, back here in the desert.